Whenever you're flying and need to take a jacket, often it's best to wear it on the plane since all kinds of craziness could happen to it if packed away. But sometimes, it just doesn't make sense to wear while traveling, and you need to figure out a way to pack a suit or sportcoat in your luggage.
When you work at home, there is no dress code. The only rule in my office is, well, make sure you put on pants before 9:00a. Otherwise, let the agenda dictate dress.
Yet, there are still a surprising number of places where I'm invited to dress "business casual." Actual meetings with real humans (gasp!), conferences and summits, PR parties and events, and general social gatherings and celebration.
And, since I've never really had a job where business, uh, regular? is the standard, scaling back from that isn't always clear.
It's easy to critique. Especially something that's obviously not a good choice, like an outdated shoe or non-flattering cut of clothing. But the real work comes with offering a solution - a constructive observation that provides a better solution than the one deemed immature, or which was simply bad idea in the first place.
For some guys, even wearing a suit can be tricky. For others, it's knowing how to best plop down that initial $300-500 just to get started. But for every man? You have to know what you're looking at before you even begin to make the right choice.
Austrailian tailor and bespoke designer Patrick Johnson gives some solid, practical advice on buying and wearing a suit, including choosing a versatile option that can be worn in multiple ways, and adding your own personality to such a relatively blank slate.
Friends, meet Martin Green, the Brooklyn-based master of the custom suit, who's been called the world's greatest tailor, and has made a bespoke suit for nearly everyone who's in the business of needing a bespoke suit, including U.S. presidents and other government employees, and film and television departments, such as the vintage recreates
Martin's career began when he came to the U.S. in 1947 as a German concentration camp survivor, and began his apprenticeship in the garment industry as a "floorboy," running fabrics and patterns around the seamshop. He now owns that very company where he began, GGG Clothing, and tailors the best custom suits in the country.
He says, "Everybody is a perfect person. There are no two people alike that you'll meet in your lifetime...I have to make you a suit that fits you," as he describes the efforts he's able to make to accomodate for all kinds of body types and needs.
Watch this excellent video to learn more about this incredible man:
If you back through old photos of dressed-up men, you'll like see a few wacky turns on the men's suit: the lapels of the 70s, the too-long, boxy jackets of the 80s, the baggy double-breasteds of the 90s. But, you'll also note that there's a basic look that hasn't changed much in nearly a century: the basic, well-cut, no-frills suit that has made men look like a million bucks for the last 100 years.
We promise to slow down on all the Mad Men content soon, but with the beginning of Season 4 this week (I haven't watched yet, don't spoil it), there's just so much good, classy guy content to pass up.
Those fine, fine suits worn by the men on the show are the sorts of things that make anyone look sharp. My guess is they create new custom-tailored outfits for the actors from vintage patterns, which makes finding an exact match at an affordable price impossible.
But, there are a lot of slim cut/skinny tie suits available these days, so it's best to take advantage of the cut while its available. (It took me like a year to buy my first adult suit in the mid-90s...everything had huge shoulders and baggy cuffed pants, and....just, ugh.)